It’s time for another Fitting Experiment!
What is that, you ask?
We are a group of sewists of different shapes and sizes, sewing the same pattern to show you the fit across the board.
You can read all about our previous (and first) installement, HERE.
This time we are featuring a much-loved pattern from Made by Runi, the Hourglass Dress.
The pattern comes with a few options:
- fitted or flared skirt;
- hourglass or simple front and back panels;
- 3 sleeve lengths;
- optional shoulder detail;
- optional side seam pockets.
I opted to make the fitted version with hourglass panel both on front and back, shoulder details and short sleeves.
Ok, before I get into the fit I want to talk about how this was a somewhat different experience as far as sewing pdf patterns go. Made by Runi is an European (Norway) based company and does things a bit different from the companies I usually blog about.
For instance, the pattern does not include seam allowances. You get to choose your preferred SA and add it to either your pattern pieces or take it into account when cutting the fabric.
Something else that is different is the fact that after purchase you get the pattern pieces, but the instructions are available to download via their blog/website via a link on the pattern listing.
I’m, personally, not a huge fan of drawing/adding seam allowance, but in this case it’s worth it.
I love this dress!
The pattern has great drafting, making it easier to achieve a good fitting garment.
My measurements at the time of making this dress were:
The past months have affected my eating habits and my measurements have been fluctuating like nothing else. It’s really important to always measure yourself before sewing and not go by guesses or estimates.
Accurate measurements are the first step for a great fitting piece of clothing.
My measurements put me in a size 8 for bust and waist and size 18 for hips.
I graded the pattern pieces accordingly.
But as I took my fabric in consideration, lightweight viscose tricot with plenty stretch and not an amazing recovery, I decided to grade the front panel to a size 14, instead of 18.
The reason for it is that I’m at the lower end of size 18 and carry most of my measurement on the backside (yeah, it’s a nice way to say that I have a big bum lol). If the fabric had more body and/or better recovery I probably would’ve graded the front panel to size 16 or 18.
I couldn’t find info about the height that Runi drafts for, so I measured the side waist of the pattern piece and compared it to mine as I have a long torso and a lot of times I need to add length there.
I added 2″ to the side waist and by holding the pattern piece against my body I decided to add another 1.5″ to the length of the dress.
That’s it, those were the only adjustments I had to make to the pattern in order to make this dress that I’m in love with.
One thing that I need to note that I did differntly from the pattern is that I decided to hem the sleeves and skirt of the dress instead of adding biding and/or trim.
If you’re a beginner, this isn’t a difficult pattern to sew. BUT, the instructions may seem a bit too vague if you’re just starting your sewing journey.
There’s no need to let that stop you from making it though. If you get stumped at any point, the Made By Runi Facebook group is a great resource if you need any help, or are just looking for some inspiration. 😉
My final thoughts on this pattern is that it’s absolutely worth the extra “hassle”of adding the seam allowance to the pattern pieces, becuase not only it’s very very well drafted, it’s also a super cute dress! <3
A special thank you to Made by Runi for sponsoring The Fitting Experiment makers with patterns so that we can share our thoughts with you.
Please check out the other makers:
- SequoiaLynn Sews
- Liviality (you’re here)
- Sew Below the Willow Tree